365 Things That I Love About France

"Le Peau de Chagrin" by Honoré de Balzac

2012-03-02T14:00:00.001+01:00

Honoré de Balzac (1799 - 1850)

French novelist and playwright extraordinaire, Balzac was one of the pioneers of Realism in European literature. His magnum opus, La Comédie Humaine (The Human Comedy), is a collection of interconnected novels portraying French society during the Restoration and July Monarchy.

As you can see, not for the weak of heart to plunge in and read such an opus!

Balzac inspired novelists such as Marcel Proust, Émile Zola, Charles Dickens, Edgar Allen Poe, Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Gustave Flaubert, Marie Corelle, Henry James, William Faulkner and Jack Kerouac.

An aside: just read Jack Kerouac and William S. Burroughs' And The Hippos Were Boiled In Their Tanks, a brilliant forerunner to the Beat Movement, which consequently led me to devour more of William S. Burroughs' works (already have read much Kerouac). Je me regale!

Bon, I digress!

As Balzac was an early pioneer of Realism, he had a sharp eye for detail and gave readers an unfiltered representation of society. Balzac sought to present his characters as real people, neither fully good nor fully evil, but fully human.

Balzac lived in a time of great political and sociological change, a time when brilliant authors were penning great epics, a time when magic and creativity were prevalent. (See the film Impromptu for an eye candy visual of cette époque.)

One of my favorite novels by Honoré de Balzac is Le Peau de Chagrin or The Magic Skin.

One year prior to commencing his magnum opus, La Comédie Humaine, Balzac wrote Le Peau de Chagrin using fantastic elements to create a realistic portrayal of the excesses of bourgeois materialism. The central theme of the novel is the conflict between desire and longevity, the magic skin represents the owner's life-force.

The novel consists of three sections: Le Talisman (The Talisman), La Femme sans cœur (The Woman without a Heart) and L'Agonie (The Agony).

In the first section, The Talisman, a young man named Raphaël de Valentin wagers his last bit of money, loses and goes towards the River Seine to drown himself. On his way, he is drawn into a curiosities shop.

The shopkeeper shows him a piece of shagreen, or rawhide, inscribed with what the old man calls Sanskrit, but what is really imprecise Arabic. The skin promises to fulfill any wish by the owner, shrinking each time a wish is fulfilled.

The shopkeeper offers the skin to Valentin at no charge, while at the same time urging him not to accept the offer. Valentin takes the skin, ignoring the warnings and immediately wishes for a royal banquet filled with wine, women and friends. He is greeted by friends in the street who invite him to such a banquet.

The second section, The Woman without a Heart, is a flashback to his life prior to receiving the magic skin. He tells a friend of his early days as a poor scholar, living with an elderly landlady and her daughter, Pauline. Valentin is blind to Pauline's affections, and tries fruitlessly to win the heart of a beautiful and aloof woman named Foedora. His tutor encourages him to immerse himself into the world of high society as a means to win Foedora's heart. Valentin succeeds in maneuvering into her social circle, only to be unable to gain her affection. He becomes the miserable and desperate man found at the beginning of section one.

In the third section, The Agony, Valentin has used the magic skin to achieve a large income, but we find both his health and the skin dwindling. He panics. He is terrified that more wishes will hasten the end of his life.

To avoid making any further wishes, he arranges for his home and his life to want for nothing. Yet events beyond his control oblige him to wish for various things, and the skin continues to shrink.

Pauline, daughter of the elderly landlady from Valentin's life as a poor scholar, comes to visit him. She expresses her love for him. When she learns the truth about the magic skin and her role in Valentin's demise, she is horrified. Valentin cannot control his desire for her and she rushes into an adjoining room to escape him and so save his life. He pounds on the door and declares both his love and his desire to die in her arms. She, meanwhile, is trying to kill herself to free him from his desire. He breaks down the door, they consummate their love in a fiery moment of passion, and he dies.

Whew!

Reading Balzac's The Magic Skin is a journey into another time. I sometimes found it to be dense and difficult, but with patience, I came to love and adore his writing and the story.

An aside: George Sand was one of the first people to read this novel, prior to publishing it. I adore this French female author, you can learn more about her in my blog entry.)

Bon, happy reading et bon weekend à tous!

Love,

Charley

Marthe Richard

2012-02-10T20:01:00.002+01:00

Marthe Richard (1889 - 1982), prostitute, spy during both World Wars, author of erotic fiction and politician.

"De la petite à la grande vertu": from a woman of easy virtue to a woman of great virtue.

In Nancy, in 1903, at the age of fourteen, Marthe Richard became an apprentice to a tailor. By the age of sixteen, she was registered as a prostitute. A soldier accused her of giving him syphilis, and she fled to Paris. There, she married wealthy industrialist, Henry Richer, in 1907.

In 1912, Henry bought her a plane. In 1913, flying the plane herself, she claimed to have broken the female record for the Le Crotoy-Zurich trip. The reality was that she only flew the plane to Burgundy, and had it shipped to the country outside Zurich, where she then flew it into the city of Zurich, but the record stayed intact.

Marthe's husband, Henry Richer, died during World War I, in 1916.

(Still from the 1937 film, "Marthe Richard au service de la France")

Shorlty after her husband's death, she became a spy under Captain Georges Ladoux, thanks to her lover, a young Russian Anarchist. Part of her duties as a spy were to become mistress to Von Krohn, head of the German Navy in Madrid. Upon her return to France, Marthe discovered that Captain Ladoux was a double agent and he was placed under arrest.

In 1926, she married Thomas Crompton, financial director for the Rockefeller Foundation, and patron of restoration for Marie Antoinette's Petit Trianon. He died unexpectedly in 1928.

She published the best seller, "My Life As A Spy In The French Service", which, in 1937 was turned into a film, Marthe Richard espionne au service de la France, starring Erich von Stroheim and Edwidge Feillere, directed by Raymond Bernard.

Her lover at the time, French Prime Minister Édouard Herriot, gave her the Légion d'honneur for Foreign Affairs.

(Still from the 1937 film, "Marthe Richard au service de la France")

During World War II, Marthe again became a spy, revered in France and detested in Germany. She became close to several members of the Gestapo, including François Spirito.

By 1945, Marthe was a famous French heroine of two wars, and was elected to the Municipal Court of the IVeme arrondissement in Popular Republican Movement party.

A brothel

In that same year, she presented her plan for the closing of all brothels in her district. Her will was done in the short space of three months, and Marthe proceeded with a campaign to close brothels in all of France.

In 1946, a bill was passed entitled La loi Marthe Richard (The Law of Marthe Richard) with the help of The Christian Democrat MRP and the Communist Party. On April 13, 1946, 1,400 brothels were closed. (Many of these brothels were converted into hotels, where prostitutes continued to do business.)

To clarify: prostitution was still legal, but several acts surrounding it were illegal.

In 1948, she was accused of involvement with organized crime, smuggling jewels and of covering up crimes. In 1954, these accusations were pronounced false, her reputation was saved.

From these processes came the nickname La Veuve Qui Clôt (The Widow who closes the deal), a pun on the premium champagne Veuve Cliquot.

In her later years, Marthe wrote erotic fiction, and gave seminars about her time as a spy.

Marthe Richard died in 1982 at the ripe old age of 92.

Bon weekend et groses bisous des femmes... intéressantes.

Love, Charley

Mylène Farmer

2012-01-30T18:35:00.001+01:00

Mylène Farmer, French singer, songwriter, actress and author.

Some say she is France's Lady Gaga, bien sur, before the latter was even born. Others say she is a sort of Madonna with more substance, imagination and artistry (la French touch), some compare her to Michael Jackson as, like Thriller, her music videos changed the way music clips were being made. What is certain is that Miss Farmer is a mega-star.

Mylène Farmer has sold more than 30 million records, is one of the most successful recording artists of all time in France and holds the record for the most #1 hits in the French charts with 12 to date, 8 of which were consecutive. She is the only French singer to have a #1 hit throughout four consecutive decades.

Pretty impressive.

Born in Quebec in 1961 to French parents, she moved to France when she was 8. At 17, she discovered acting and changed her surname name to Farmer in tribute to her idol, actress Frances Farmer. In 1984, she met 17-year-old film student, Laurent Boutonnat, after responding to an ad for an actress in a small film he was working on. They became friends, writing and producing music together, with Boutonnat being the force behind Mylène's music videos--a collaboration that still survives today.

It was with the release of the single "Libertine" on her 1986 album, "Cendres de Lune" that the tone for Mylène's musical style was set, the lyrics are sensual and romantic, inspired by 19th century literature. Boutonnat, who directed and produced the video, was inspired by Stanley Kubricks film "Barry Lyndon" and the novels of the Marquis de Sade. It is the very first video in which a French female singer appears full frontal naked.

Here is part one of two of Mylène's richly decorous erotic epics set in 18th century France. They are certainly more films than music videos, carrying the watcher back to another époque.

Libertine

Her second album, "Ainsi soit je" (a play on the French expression "ainsi soit-il", or "so be it"), has a much darker ambiance, and is more sexually ambiguous than her previous album. Its songs are inspired by Mylène's favorite authors, including French romantic poet Charles Baudelaire and American horror writer Edgar Allen Poe.

The first #1 hit of her career from her second album, "Pourvu qu'elles soient douces"is the suite to "Libertine".

Pourvu Qu'elles Soient Douces

Mylène Farmer notoriously shied away from the public eye, and hesitated to tour in concert. Finally she agreed in 1989 to a full scale 52-date tour in Europe; her costumes were designed by Thierry Mugler.

The release of her 3rd album in 1991, "L'Autre..." made her an icon with its single "Désenchantée" (the best selling French single of all time according the Guinness Book of World Records). Unfortunately, a man who had been stalking her entered Polydor Records in Paris and held employees at gunpoint demanding to speak with Miss Farmer. He murdered the receptionist. Mylène fled to Los Angeles to live for a short while.

Désenchantée

In 1992, her album "Dance Remixes" was releases which included a new song, "Que mon cœur lâche", a song dealing with AIDS and sexual relations, and directed by the amazing French director, Luc Besson (I will blog about this director soon as his films are absolute masterpieces).

During her time in California, she wrote her forth studio album, Anamorphosée, again, a huge success.

In 1999, her fifth studio album, Innamoramento, was released, and later that year she toured, the Mylenium Tour, which set the record for the highest grossing tour by a non-English speaking artist.

In 2001, her first greatest hits collection came out, "Les Mots", whose title track and single, a duet with Seal, became a huge hit.

After a long period of silence, in December 2004, Mylène held a press conference to announce her new album "Avant que l'ombre" with her new single "Fuck Them All". The album went multi-platinum. This was followed by a 13-night concert engagement in Paris in 2006. There was little to no promotion, marking a new level of reclusively for the icon (to date, nothing is known about her personal life). This show was designed by Mark Fisher, and featured two stages connected by a mobile bridge and a curtain of words written with water.

She recorded a duet with Moby entitled "Slipping Away", to which she translated the lyrics into French.

Mylène then worked on Luc Besson's film "Aurther and the Minimoys", doing the voice of Selenia whose character was voiced by Madonna in the international version.

2008 marked the release of her electro-driven album "Point de Suture". Mylène Farmer beat her own record of having more #1 hits in France than any other artist with 5 singles from the album at #1.

"Bleu Noir" was released in 2010, produced by Farmer, RedOne, Moby and Archive with collaborations with Line Renaud and Ben Harper.

Her single "Oui mais... non" was produced by RedOne who co-produced "Poker Face", "Bad Romance" and "LoveGame" and who has worked not only with Lady Gaga, but with Jennifer Lopez, Enrique Iglesias and Pitbull.

Mylène Farmer performed this last Saturday at France's NRJ (pronounced energy) Music Awards.

So, my big question is... what is she going to surprise and astound us with next? En tout cas, well done, Miss Farmer, chapeau (hats off)....

Groses bisous de musique original et a bientôt.

Love, Charley

History of the French language - part two

2012-01-25T01:25:00.004+01:00

La suite.

A quick recap from my last blog, History of the French language, and on to the rest (la suite).

France was first inhabited by the Celts, an Indo-European and ethno-linguistically diverse group of tribal societies in the Iron Age and Roman-era Europe who spoke Celtic languages. This Celtic culture had expanded over a large area to the British Isles (Insular Celts), France (Gauls), Central Europe, the Iberian Peninsula, northern Italy and the Balkans. By the first millennium CE, following the Roman invasions and the Great Migrations, the Celtic culture became restricted to Ireland, Wales, Scotland, Cornwall, the Isle of Man and to northern France (Brittany).

Expansion of the Celtic culture, BCE.

Roman invaders

Then the Romans invaded, and Vulgar Latin quickly took hold among the urban aristocracy for mercantile, official and educational reasons, but did not prevail in the countryside until some four or five centuries later.

The Franks

The Franks: From the 3rd century on, Western Europe was invaded by Germanic tribes from the north and east, and some of these groups settled in Gaul.

Scandinavian Vikings

Scandinavian Vikings invaded France from the 9th century on, which threw a few Old Norse words in the mix such as: mouette, crique, hauban and hune.

Arabic scholars

About the same time, many words from the Arabic language came into the mix primarily via Medieval Latin, Italian and Spanish. Words such as: élixir, orange, safran, alcool, bougie, coton, alchimie, hasard, algèbre and algorithme.

An aside: beginning in the 7th century, Arabic became what Greek had been to the Hellenistic world, a common language to the Islamic world. The language created an international network of letters, science, philosophy and medicine. Islamic people practiced religious tolerance, cultural tolerance, excelled in trade and were a curious people who quickly became experts in philosophy, astronomy, geography, mathematics, chemistry and medicine. Hence the words above. (For more, take a look at this series of films: The Byzantine Empire Parts four and five.)

So, where does all this leave us? With a mix of Celtic Gaulish and Vulgar Latin, sprinkled with German, Scandinavian, Old Norse and Arabic.

Old French was the Romance dialect continuum spoken in northern France, modern Belgium and Switzerland from the 9th to the 14th century. Old French is broken down into two principal types: langue d'oïl in the north, and langue d'oc, the Occitan language spoken in Provence.

Medieval French Scholar

In the third Council of Tours in 813, priests were ordered to preach either Romance or Germanic since the common people could no longer understand formal Latin.

Charlemagne

Crusaders

Old French became a literary language with the chansons de geste which told tales of the paladins of Charlemagne and the heroes of the Crusades.

And, in 1539, by the Ordinance of Villers-Cotterêts, King Francis I made French the official language of administration and court proceedings, ousting the Latin that had been used up until then.

This French is called Middle French (moyen français).

Académie française

In the 17th and 18th centuries, following a period of unification, regulation and purification, the language developed into what we call Classical French. The foundation of the Académie française in 1634 by Cardinal Richelieu created an official body whose goal has been the purification and preservation of the French language.

.A total aside: (The Cardinal is played by Charlton Heston in a film based upon Alexandre Dumas père's The Three Musketeers, or read a little Alexandre Dumas père or fils.)

During The Age of Enlightenment, from the 17th to the 19th centuries, French became the lingua franca of educated Europe especially in regards to arts, literature and diplomacy.

Weimar's "Courtyard of the Muses"

An interesting side note: According to historian Eric Hobsbawm, "in 1789, 50% of the French people didn't speak French at all, and only 12 to 13% spoke it 'fairly'" as there were many local dialects or "patois". "...in the north as in the south of France, almost nobody spoke French."

In the last century, there has been a great influence of English in the French language (Franglais), especially in regards to international business, the sciences and popular culture.

Recently, there has been pressure from some regions of France for recognition and support for their regional languages (remember all those "patois" dialects above?).

Today, the Académie française continues to preserve the French language.

Whew, that was fun and interesting!!

Groses kisses et see you bientôt.

Love, Charley

History of the French language

2012-01-06T15:22:00.000+01:00

After much research, and discussion amongst French friends, I have come to the conclusion that France is indeed quite the melting pot! The history of its language is a real mish-mash of invading forces' languages and cultures, which makes for an interesting story.

French is a descendant of the spoken Latin language, Vulgar Latin, of the Roman Empire, as are languages such as Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, Romanian, Sardinian and Catalan--all are called "Romance Languages".

The Roman Empire in 60 CE

In the Roman Empire, there were two types of Latin: Classical Latin which was written and spoken by the upper class, and Vulgar Latin which was not written, but only spoken by the lower class.

The invading Roman forces were primarily lower class subjects who spoke Vulgar Latin. As the Romans stuck around for quite a while, their Vulgar Latin gradually blended in with local dialects and languages, creating new languages.

Julius Caesar

Julius Caesar, Emperor of the Roman Empire, conquered Gaul, now known as present day France, in 50 BCE. The Romans found the people speaking a language known as Gaulish, which is known to be an ancient Celtic language dating to before 500 CE used in the western and central parts of Europe and Asia Minor.

The most famous Gauls are, bien sur, Asterix and Obelix from René Goscinny and Albert Uderzo's comic book tales of the Gauls fighting off the Roman invaders! Excellent reading, wonderful wit and prose (brilliant translation).

While the French language evolved from Vulgar Latin, it was nonetheless influenced by Gaulish, especially in its phonological development. In French, some 200 words of Gaulish origin have been retained, most of which pertain to folk life such as: lande, chêne, alouette, belette, boe, cervoise, mouton, changer and craindre. Other Celtic words were not borrowed directly but brought in through the spoken Vulgar Latin: béton, chainse, glaive, manteau and vassal.

Vulgar Latin quickly took hold among the urban aristocracy for mercantile, official and educational reasons, but did not prevail in the countryside until some four or five centuries later.

An invading tribe of Franks

From the 3rd century on, Western Europe was invaded by Germanic tribes from the north and east, and some of these groups settled in Gaul. In the history of the French language, the most important of these groups are the Franks in northern France, the Alemanni in the modern German/French border area, the Burgundians in the Rhône Valley and the Visigoths in the Aquitaine region and Spain. Their language had a profound influence on the Latin spoken in their respective regions, altering both the pronunciation and the syntax.

The name of the language itself, français, comes from Old French franceis/francesc from the Germanic frankisc "french, frankish" from Frank ('freeman'). The Franks referred to their land as Franko(n) which became Francia in Latin in the 3rd century. (Whew, that's a mouthful!)

Sources disagree on how much of the vocabulary of modern French comes from Germanic words, ranging from just 500 words (1%) to 7% of modern vocabulary. (Note: according to the Académie française, only 5% of the French words come from English!)

The Germanic words are words associated with social structure like: baron/baronne, bâtard, féodal, garçon, lige, maçon, maréchal, and marquis. Military terms like: attaquer, bière, flèche, guerre, garder, loge, marcher, rattraper and troupe. Colores such as: blanc/blanche, bleu, blond/blonde, brun, fauve and gris. And Common words such as: abandonner, banquet, bâtir, bois, bonnet, chagrin, choix, chic, cliché, crèche, danser, flan, frapper, galant, gâteau, jardin, joli, laid, masque, massacrer, mauvais, mousse, orgueil, parc, rater, regarder, remarquer, riche/richesse, robe, saisir, salon, savon, soupe, tampon and tomber.

Duchy of Normandy in pink

In 1204 CE, the Duchy of Normandy was integrated into the Kingdom of France, and about 150 words of Scandinavian origin were introduced into the French language, most of them having to do with the sea and seafaring.

(Let us not forget that William the Conquerer came from Normandy, his granddaughter Empress Mathilda, see my blog--there is a lot of history in Normandy, lots of haunted places, check out the "Ghostly Stories" section of my blog for more info.)

Bon, to be continued....

Happy weekend, Happy New Year, and may all your lives be filled with peace, love, fun and happiness in 2012.

Love, Charley

Fête des Lumières

2011-12-06T13:31:00.001+01:00

The Fourvière Basilica in Lyon is dedicated to the Virgin Mary who is said to have saved the city of Lyon from the deadly plague in 1643. In commemoration of this incredible feat--the plague killed one quarter to half the population--Lyon gives thanks each year on December 8th with La Fête des Lumières.

Each inhabitant puts colored glasses with candles in their windows. The entire city is lit up with the most imaginative light shows. The entire Place des Terreaux hosts a themed light show telling a story as it runs along the walls of its ancient buildings.

Roughly one million people come to Lyon each December 8th for the Fête des Lumières! So, come join the fun.

Groses bisous des lumières et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

Les Rita Mitsouko

2011-11-30T11:34:00.000+01:00

One of the most successful musical acts of the 80's, Les Rita Mitsouko was a French punk, rock, synth pop, and jazz group formed by guitarist Fred Chichin and singer Catherine Ringer. Their name, "Rita Mitsouko" comes from the combination of Catherine's childhood friend and the name of a meal they shared in a Japanese restaurant.

They began performing in the early 80's in alternative spaces like the Palikao, a squatted factory building in Belleville, Paris.

The second single on their first album, "Marcia Baila, rose to number 2 on the French record charts.

Andy, the first single from their second album "The No Comprendo".

They made seven albums, the last of which was released in 2007 just before Fred Chichin died from cancer.

As well as winning Best Album of the Year for "The No Comprendo", best Video of the Year for "C'est comme ça" among other awards, in 1994, their video for the song, Y'a d'la haine (there is hate), won "Best video of the Year" at the MTV Europe Music Awards.

Y'a d'la haine

Gros bisous de musique original et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

Haunted places to visit in Paris!

2011-11-27T00:45:00.001+01:00

Haunted places to visit in Paris

Paris, France, a city of legend, a city that, for six thousand years, has been settled by ancient Celts and Romans, Franks and the Merovingian, Carolingian and Capetian dynasties and by the houses of Valois and Bourbon and Napoleon. Paris has survived medieval plagues, wars of territory, religion and revolution and has been the birthplace of brilliant art, music and industry. No wonder it is France's capitol. No wonder it is one of the most haunted cities in the world.

At the top of the Eiffel Tower, if you hear laughter mingled with screams then you are participating in the intimate torment of a young girl who was pushed to her death by an enraged lover whom she refused to marry.

Many powerful and famous people have passed through the Notre Dame Cathedral whose stories have finished badly: Henry VI lived a troubled life and violent death; Louis XVI finished on the guillotine; Mary Queen of Scots ended up on a scaffold; Marie Antoinette, guillotined; Empress Josephine, dishonored; and Napoleon had Waterloo. There is also the story of the locksmith, Biscornet, who, overwhelmed with his commission to build the locks on the portal of Saint Anne, made a pact with the devil. Mysteriously the locks were finished in the night and the body of the locksmith found dead a few days later. Cameras and video have caught a plethora of paranormal activity inside Notre Dame.

During WWII, a French woman married to a man in the Resistance was having a daytime relationship with a Nazi officer to gain information. At night she would meet her husband on the Pont Marie bridge. One night he never came and she died from the cold. She waits for him still, and some nights you can see her shadowy form and hear her sobbing.

In the Louvre museum, there are traces of spirits attached to numerous famous works, but the most easily discerned hauntings are found in the medieval section, at the base of the original donjon built in the 13^th century. Many orbs and shadows have been captured in photographs taken near the donjon.

In the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, you will find the graves of scores of famous people like Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt, Edith Piaf, Proust and Delacroix. With 300,000 people buried there, many ghosts haunt Père-Lachaise Cemetery. Chopin has been seen strolling the paths and the ghosts of 147 communards who were shot at dawn against the east wall in 1871 haunt their final resting place.

It is said there are secret tunnels leading from the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise to the Catacombs of Paris—conduits for black magic worshipers who wish to mingle in the underground with the dead. Carved by the Romans as a quarry, in 1786, the remains of roughly six million people along with remnants of their tombstones were placed in an artistic fashion along the grisly and gloomy corridors of these underground tunnels. Some people have reported the wispy feel of long-dead fingers brushing their upper backs, arms and hair, other have seen orbs and cloudy forms. Many have had to leave the tunnels, feeling a profound sense of being watched and closed in.

If you take a stroll through the Jardin des Tuileries, keep an eye out for The Man In Red. Queen Catherine de Medici had a passion for the occult. Jean l'Ecorcheur was the man who connected her with mages and warlocks. There came a time when Catherine de Medici felt he knew too much and had him murdered. Just before he died, he declared, "I shall return!" Since then, he appears covered in blood prior to a person's death.

The Gallows of Montfaucon. 53 rue de la Grange-aux-Belles, Paris. In 1325 an enormous gallows was constructed. A plinth six meters high held sixteen stone pillars each ten meters high. People were hung in clusters and left to disintegrate. Then there bodies, along with bodies from other parts of Paris, were dumped into a huge pit beneath the gallows. The spot in Paris that has seen the most deaths, at night you can sometimes here the rattling of chains and groans.

The headless ghost of Isauré de Montsouris regulalry haunts the parc Montsouris where he was murdered by bandits in 831. The park was also home to the château de Val-Vert, which housed the legendary devil Vauvert as well as the testing site for the Guillotine. Indeed a sinister environment!

Heavy traffic in these places doesn't always make for good ghost hunting. Keep yourselves open and look beyond the obvious.

Gros bisous hantés Parisian!

Love,

Charley

Les Inconnus - The Unknown

2011-11-22T14:05:00.000+01:00

LES INCONNUS

A French trio of humorists formed in 1984 who got a television show by 1990 entitled La Télé des Inconnus, which was a smash hit. They specialized in comedy sketches and were masters of disguise. You must watch their stuff on Youtube (search Les Inconnus and you'll see tons of clips), they are some of my favorites in French humor.

They rapped,

Blood/money sucking, rapping, vampire taxmen:

Rap-tout vampire

took care of sick people in their own special way,

At the hospital:

Les Inconnus a l'hopital

made fun of music videos and pop groups,

Musique:

Pop stars:

Vice et Versa

Rockers:

C'est Toi Que Je T'aime

and were spot on in their portrayal of two intellectuals and talk show host on France's la-tee-dah television channel, Arte.

Les Inconnus Arte

Finally, they did a film entitled, The Three Brothers (Les trois frères), which won the César Award for best debut.

Bon, gros bisous de comedy et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

Alice Cooper in Lyon

2011-11-07T14:26:00.001+01:00

Last night I went to see Alice Cooper in Lyon at Hall Tony Garnier. It was ... fantastique!

It was my son's first ever concert. Way to start off with a bang!

Alice Cooper puts on a good show: great music, excellent musicians (the drum solo was intense! The rocker chic guitar player, Orianthi, kicked ass!), and truly professional showmanship.

You may remember Alice Cooper from the 1992 film, Wayne's World? (See my blog) Too funny, and so fabulous of Mr. Cooper to do the cameo.

My favorite song, apart from School's Out with an homage to Pink Floyd's "Another Brick in the Wall, was "Feeding My Frankenstein". I couldn't find an HD definition video on Youtube of the actual concert, so you'll just have to make do with this version (which is excellent).

Bon, back to writing!

Gros bisous du Rock et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

Five Chic and cheap hotels and hostels in Paris

2011-11-02T22:28:00.001+01:00

I was recently asked to write an article for Anytrip.com on the Paris' most famous spooky spots.

Click here to read my article.

As Any Trip specializes in listing great places to stay at great prices for your wallet, I asked them to write up a little article for me. Without further ado...

Five Chic and cheap hotels and hostels in Paris

Doing the chic Paris thing on a budget can be a challenge – but we’ve dug up a few places to stay that cost less and still look cute. Here are our five favorite hostels and hotels that offer gob-smacking value along with a little bit of personal style…

1. The Guesthouse at Giovanni’s Room : 151, Rue de Crimee, Paris, Île-de-France, France 75019

This cozy hostel for the young crowd is off-the-beaten-path but nestled in a quiet neighborhood oozing that authentic (and elusive!) Parisian charm. The friendly staff keeps the rooms and common kitchen clean and cheerfully offers sightseeing advice while you can foster friendships with other travelers in the lounge area and game room. Free WiFi helps you share your vacation stories with the gang back home while getting tips what to do once you make the quick Metro trip to sites like Moulin Rouge and Sacrè-Coeur.

2. Hotel Opera Vivaldi:  10 Rue du Helder, Paris, Île-de-France, France 75009

Adventurous couples have long coveted this romantic retreat in the heart of Paris that is close to everything but in a world of its own. The recently remodeling has buffed up its old world elegance while adding all the modern touches you expect. With a location near the opulent Opera House, it is not surprising that the surrounding neighborhood is packed trendy restaurants, high-end boutiques and after-show venues. Just a short walk away is the granddaddy of all chic shopping malls, Galleries Lafayette, where the hottest fashions hit the rack first.

3. Hotel Taylor:  6 Rue Taylor, Paris, Île-de-France, France 75010

Located in the glamorous République neighborhood, this charming hotel offers a family-style atmosphere that welcomes travelers with well-appointed rooms complete with fluffy bathrobes and room service breakfasts. A short walk from this quiet side street is the busy Grands Boulevards full of delicious smells wafting from the bakeries and sidewalk coffee shops that make for some of the best people watching in Paris. Keep an eye on the side streets for exquisite little malls like the Galerie Vivienne where the most exclusive boutiques hide from the pedestrian crowd.

4. Peace and Love Hostel:  245 rue La Fayette, Paris, Île-de-France, France 75010

Living up to its name, this hip and happening youth hostel not only provides tidy rooms with free WiFi but encourages travelers to mingle and swap stories. Have some quality time with your new friends hanging in the cozy lounge with cheap drinks or take advantage of the fully equipped kitchen to share your favorite recipes or experiment with the exotic ingredients you find at the nearby markets. Sign up for free walking tours from the hotel along the scenic Grand Canal to the crooked narrow streets of the Marais historic district or head to the Pere Lachaise cemetery to explore the oldest park in Paris, the Buttes Chaumont, which even has a cave and a waterfall. When you’re finally ready to step out and see the rest of Paris, just head to the nearby Metro station to be whisked off to famous major attractions like the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower.

5. Friends Hostel:  122 Boulevard de la chapelle, Paris, Île-de-France, France 75018

Globe-trotters light on cash but primed for adventure appreciate not only the cheap rates at this neighborhood hostel but all the opportunities to meet up with other intrepid travelers. The outdoor courtyard is set up to savor morning coffee, sip afternoon tea or host BYOB parties after dark. Rent a bicycle to check out the local neighborhood for the taste of everyday Paris. You can even take your rented bicycle along with you on the Metro to tour sites like Butte Montmartre, Place du Tertre' and the Sacré Coeur at your own pace without having to deal with schedules or traffic.

About the author: Lela Lake combines a life-long love of Paris with an eye for a money-saving tip by writing for AnyTrip.com, the budget travel specialists. Check out their full selection of cheap Paris hotels.

Bon voyage!

Love, Charley

Zombie Walk 2011

2011-10-26T23:41:00.000+02:00

Hey everyone, I'm back!

I've just about wrapped up a translation of a French historical non-fiction manuscript which goes to print in November. Lots of other interesting writing projects in the works as well.

In the midst of all this glorious writing, I managed to take time to participate in Lyon's annual Zombie Walk. Yes, you heard me right... Zombie Walk! Now, how fun is that?

First we went and had our makeup done by professional makeup artists who were on site.

Little old zombie moi...

... and my zombie friend.

Then, we gathered in a big square (roughly 400 zombies) where we learned a few zombie moves and shouts.

Some fellow zombies....

We walked from Croix-Rousse hill and finished at Place des Terreaux.

Zombie attack on the church of Scientology!

Ohhh, a fabulous male Snow White zombie, loved, loved, loved him!

Ok, this guy was super creepy!

Nice saw, zombie dude!

It was so much fun, so many people participated and were really into the whole zombie thing. The best part was keeping the zombie makeup on and strolling around town, totally freaked people out. Bien sur, we also wore our zombie makeup to a party that night--mwah-ha--and a fun time was had by all!

And here is a little zombie video for you all to bring you right into the ambience that was the Zombie Walk.

Bon, gros bisous des zombies et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

Dalida

2011-09-07T09:48:00.002+02:00

Dalida (1933 - 1987)

Born Lolanda Cristina Gigliotti in Cairo Egypt of Italian origins, her father was first violinist at the Cairo Opera House. Her parents agreed that a career as a secretary would suit her, but she had other ideas. In 1950, she won a beauty pageant and began working as a model. In 1954, she was crowned Miss Egypt. French director Marc de Gastyne spotted her at the pageant and she moved to Paris that same year to pursue a career in film. Dalida spoke fluent Italian, Egyptian Arabic and French.

Her film career was lacking in luster and she took singing lessons. In 1956, she had a huge hit single called Bambino. With 46 weeks in the French top ten, it launched her into stardoms. It remains one of the biggest selling French singles to date.

In 1957, Dalida was on the covers of multiple magazines and had a gold disk album. She married her agent Lucien Morisee. The relationship turned sour as her husband pushed her too hard with work and she feel in love with Jean Sobieski (father of the actress, Leelee Sobieski), divorcing her husband.

Having lost her father at a tender age--he was killed in a prisoner of war camp during WWII--and having had a difficult relationship with him that was never resolved, Dalida looked for her father in the men she was with, leading to complicated and tempestuous relationships.

In 1967, the new man in her life, Luigi Tenco, committed suicide by barbiturates and alcohol. Devastated, Dalida herself attempted to end her life, happily, this did not happen. In 1970, her ex-husband killed himself in their old apartment, shooting himself in the head. She recorded the song, He Must Have been 18, which recounts the tale of her falling pregnant with an eighteen year old; her consequent abortion was botched and left her sterile. In 1975, her great friend and fellow singer, Mike Brant, also killed himself. In 1983, her boyfriend of nine years, Richard Chanfray, put an end to his life as well as that of his new girlfriend by inhalation of gas. It was then, at the age of 50 that Dalida was persuaded she was bad luck to the men in her life.

Throughout all of this horrible tragedy, Dalida remained the consummate professional and her career skyrocketed. She sought to understand herself and her problems by becoming passionate about Freud, studying yoga and undergoing Jungian psychoanalysis.

In 1973, she got together with her longtime friend and ex-lover, Alain Delon, and they recorded Paroles Paroles.

Alain Delon

The lyrics are just fabulous, listen closely.

Click here for the lyrics in English--it's too much!

In the 70's, she became a worldwide star, a professional showwoman wearing sexy gowns split up the side and filling concert halls all over the world. She did television variety shows. She was greatly appreciated in Arabic countries with her Egyptian folk song hit Salma Ya Salama, which she recorded in five different languages. In 1978, she played to a packed house in Carnegie Hall where the crowd went wild.

Dalida threw herself into the new craze: disco. Her single J'attendrai version 75 was the first French disco single. In 1978, she filmed the first French music video with her hit Génération 78.

Here is a video of her hit Soleil. It's so camp and fabulous, I can hardly stand to watch it. Love it!

But my all time favorite Dalida song is her version of the Nancy Sinatra hit Bang Bang. Pure heaven with an excellent montage of photos.

Overworked, cut off from her public during preparations for the musical theatrical role of Cleopatra, traumatized by the recent suicide of her old boyfriend, Dalida fell into a profound nervous depression.

On May 7, 1987, she took her own life by ingesting an overdose of barbiturates in her home in Montmartre district of Paris, leaving behind a note which read, "Pardonnez-moi, la vie m'est insupportable." (Forgive me, my life is unbearable.)

Since her death, Dalida has become a cult figure. She came in second behind Général de Gaulle in the 1988 Encyclopaedia Universalis poll on popular French people. A place was named after her in Paris. In 2002, a postage stamp was made in her memory and Universal Music Group released a special digitally remastered set of CD's of her recordings. Dalida sold 130 million records from 1956 to 2006. Many of her songs have been remixed in techno form, topping the charts today.

Gros bisous d'une personnalité et tallant extraordinaire et a bientôt.

Love, Charley

New Paris nightclub - Silencio

2011-09-03T12:59:00.001+02:00

David Lynch

This week, David Lynch opened a members-only club called Silencio at 142, rue Monmartre in Paris .

Based on the nightclub Silencio in his film Mulholland Drive, the club houses a bar, concert hall, art library and movie theater. This very private club allows access to members only from 18h to 24h, when it is then open to a non-member elite crowd until 6h.

David Lynch spent two years designing furniture with designer Raphael Navot

and working with partner, Arnaud Frisch, responsible for the trendy Parisian nightclub Socail Club as well as with the music label Savoir Faire.

"Silencio is something dear to me," says Lynch. "I wanted to create an intimate space where all the arts could come together."

The Guardian describes the place as "somewhere between nirvana, a classy Cincinatti cocktail bar circa 1975, and Goldie's mouth." There is a smoking room and a restaurant that serves finger foods all night.

Here is the trailer for Lynch's 2001 film Mulholland Drive. If you haven't seen it yet, I more than highly recommend it.

Oh, and, p.s. Mr. Lynch was born in Missoula, Montana. Definitely something in the water there as I well know.

Gros bisous des clubs super élite et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

King Henri IV's head discovered

2011-08-25T14:41:00.000+02:00

So good to be back! I trust you all had a wonderful long hot summer. For me, there were many changes as the past became the past and a whole new present and future presented themselves. Lovely.

It came to my attention that the head of Henri IV was discovered late in 2010.

King Henri IV when his head was still attached. Quite the dashing character, n'est-ce pas?

Also quite the interesting character. Henri IV was King of Navarre before becoming King of France. He was raised protestant and joined the Huguenot forces during the French Wars of Religion.

On August 18, 1572, he married Margaret of Valois, daughter of Henri II and Catherine de' Medici. Six days later, the Saint Bartholomew's Day Massacre began in Paris where thousands of Protestant wedding goers were killed.

You can read more about about Catherine de' Medici, Henri II and his lovely mistress Diane de Poitier, in my blog The Ghost of the White Queen - Chateau de Chenonceau.

You can learn more about the French Wars of Religion, Henri IV and Margaret de Valois by watching the exquisite film La Reine Margot.

Despite the religious conflicts that continued to ravage France, King Henri IV reigned for two decades and was called "Henri the great" and "the good king Henri." He regularized state finance, promoted agriculture, undertook public works and encouraged education. He also built new highways, bridges and canals, the most famous being the Pont Neuf and Palces des Vosges in Paris.

There were some who were not keen on his religious tolerance and, after numerous attempts upon his life, King Henri IV was murdered in 1610 by a militant Catholic named Francois Ravaillac.

Henri IV was embalmed and buried at the Basilica of Saint-Denis. During the French Revolution, his royal grave as well as others were mutilated and mixed together in a mass grave.

King Henri IV's head surfaced and was sold at a Paris auction in the early 1900's. For a hundred years, it moved discreetly from one private collection to another until last year year when it was discovered in a tax collector's attic.

The skull bears distinctive knife cuts and a pierced ear. Its preservation is excellent with soft tissue and organs well conserved. Scientists and Historians examined the head for nine months before pronouncing it to be, indeed, the cranium of Henri IV, King of France and Navarre.

The head now belongs to a royal descendant and has been reinterred at the Basilica of Saint-Denis.

Requiescat in pace.

Gros bisous des têtes intéressant et a bientôt.

Love, Charley

Glasgow Necropolis

2011-08-09T18:56:00.000+02:00

My 18 year old nephew plays the bagpipes. This summer, he is participating World Pipe Band Championships in Glasgow, Scotland with 40,000 Spectators, 8,000 Pipers & Drummers, 16 Nations and 1 World Champion. Pretty cool. So, that is why I am in Glasgow.

Mon fils, moi, ma fille et mon nephew!

A band, warming up.

Loved this guy!!

Bien sur, the first thing I noticed was that Glasgow has a spectacular cemetery just behind Saint Mungo's Cathedral. A Victorian place to bury the dead modeled after Paris' Père-Lachaise Cemetery which is where the likes of Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Moliere etc., etc. are buried. (Blog coming soon!)

Glasgow Necropolis entry.

The planning of this cemetery began in 1831. Alexander Thomson, John bryce and David Hamilton designed the architecture and some of the tombs.

It was peaceful, beautiful and graceful. As it is the World Pipe Band Championships, bagpipe music is playing all over the city day and night. How hauntingly poignant it was to have this music accompanying our visit!

A Celtic Cross; one of many.

James Stevens Curl described the Glasgow Necropolis as "literally a city of the dead". There are catacombs, massive and ornate mausoleums and family tombs.

A view of Saint Mungo (patron saint of Glasgow) Cathedral from the cemetery.

Hands down my favorite tomb: actor-manager John Henry Alexander of the Theater Royal. The tomb has a stage and proscenium arch with flanking figures of Tragedy and Comedy. (Oops, except it looks as though someone ran away with Tragedy.)

Bon, drinking good whiskey, eating good food, but mostly listening to incredible bagpipe music.

Gros bisous de cornemuse et a bientôt!!

Love, Charley

Alive & Kickin'!

2011-08-06T20:41:00.000+02:00

Hey everyone, just wanted to let you all know I am still alive & kicking'!! Going through some major life changes, plus summer vacation, plus kids home 24/7.

Life is great, all is well. We are off on a few adventures until the 27th of August. I may or may not blog in between. Rest assured, upon my return, things will settle down and we will get back to the whole loving France blogging business.

Gros bisous de la vie en rose et a bientot!

Love, Charley

10 Reasons to visit Lyon

2011-07-27T09:18:00.000+02:00

10 Reasons To Visit Lyon

Founded as a Roman colony in 43 BCE and named Lugdunum, Lyon quickly became the starting point for all Roman roads in Gaul and consequently its capital.

During the second century ACE, Christians in Lyon were martyred for their religion. Legend tells us how in the Roman Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls on Croix-Rousse hill, Romans tortured Saint Blandina, how her faith in the Christian religion was so pure the wild beasts declined to attack her and how a gladiator had to be called in to finish her off.

In the late Middle Ages, Lyon became the banking capital for all of Europe. During the Renaissance, having close ties with Italy, Lyon became a centre for silk trade. There is much Italian influence on Lyon's architecture, especially in the old city called Vieux Lyon.

One of the sites for the infamous St. Bartholomew's Day massacre, thousands of Huguenots were murdered in the streets of Lyon upon the orders of the Catholic Catherine de Medici, mother of King Charles IX. During the French Revolution, the Lyonnais supported the king and fought against the Revolutionaries. The city was under siege for months and, when they finally surrendered, thousands were executed in public squares.

Lyon was a strategic centre for occupying German forces during WWII and an important part of the French Resistance.

Jean Moulin, emblem of the French Resistance.

Today, Lyon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and thrives as France's second largest city as the gastronomic capital of France and as a major centre for banking and pharmaceutical industries.

Lyon's rich and fascinating history, gorgeous architecture, quality museums and absolute top restaurants make it "must visit" destination in France.

As I am celebrating my tenth year in my adopted city, I give you 10 Reasons To Visit Lyon.

1. Food and wine, number one, bien sur. The city is filled with excellent quality restaurants for all budgets: from Vieux Lyon's Bouchon restaurants filled with old world recipes from Lyon's silk weavers, to restaurants for the world's top chefs including Georges Blanc and Paul Bocuse, to eating fresh frog legs that originate from the étangs (ponds) of the La Dombes in the surrounding "Pays de l'Ain". Being in the middle of the Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône wine regions, Lyon restaurants offer a variety of delicious wines.

Favorite Bouchon in Vieux Lyon: Cafe du Soleil

Favorite Brasserie near Perrache: Brasserie Georges

Favorite affordable gastronomic Place Terraux: L'Etage

2. High on the Fourvière hill, the original settlement of Lugdunum, sits the Basilica of Fourvière built in 1872 in Romanesque and Byzantine-style architecture. Right next to the Basilica you will find La Tour Métallique, which stands proudly as a copy and rival of Paris' Eiffel Tower. If you are feeling adventurous, pop over to see the Le cimetière de Loyasse located just behind La Tour Métallique. Lyon's most famous citizens are buried in this stunning cemetery.

3. Moving on down the Fourvière hill, you will find the fantastic ruins of a Roman Ampitheater and Odéon. Outdoor concerts are performed each summer called Les Nuits de Fourviere. My first summer here, I saw a Stravinsky ballet performed in the two thousand year old ruins under a full moon—utterly magical.

4. During the day, you can rent a Velov bicycle or simply stroll along the Les Berges du Rhône or Quais du Rhône, a delightful embarcadero along the Rhône River with dozens of péniches or boats that host restaurants and bars.

5. Les Traboules, famed hidden pedestrian passageways dating from the 4th century which run through Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse neighbourhoods. They allow one to traverse the city without being seen. These were used by the French Resistance to escape detection from the Nazis. You can find a map of these Traboules in Place Bellecour at the Tourist Information Centre.

6. Once you've visited the Traboules, take a load off at one of Vieux Lyon's many Irish Pubs where you can enjoy excellent beer and a good old-fashioned hamburger if you need a break from the rich sauces and cheeses of the Lyonnais palate. Johnny's Kitchen, directly across from the St. Georges Church, is my personal favourite.

7. It is very French to discuss your next meal whilst eating your current meal. Another must visit spot is Les Halles de Paul Bocus on Cours Lafayette in the 6eme district. There you can nibble on fresh seafood with a "pot" of chilled white wine, taste Spain's exquisite Pata Negra ham with a glass of red wine or simply load up on the best quality cheeses, meats, sausages, cannels, deserts, luxury items like caviar and foie gras, seafood and exotic Moroccan fare. You won’t be disappointed.

8. Museums, museums and more museums! I highly recommend the Musée des Beaux-Arts, Musée d'art contemporain de Lyon, Musée des Tissus et des Arts décoratifs de Lyon, Musée Gallo-Romain Lyon - Fourvière and the newly reopened Musée Gadagne in Vieux Lyon.

9. Churches. I have already mentioned the Basilica of Fourvière. Also interesting to visit are: the medieval Cathedral of St. John, the 11th century Basilica of St-Martin-d'Ainay (where it is said Saint Blandina's ashes are buried under the foundation) and Gothic-style churches Église Saint-Paul, Église Saint-Bonaventure and Eglise Saint-Nizier.

10. Last but not least, take an afternoon tea or hot chocolate (so thick and rich you would think they simply melted a bar of chocolate) with a plate of exquisite pastries at Bernachon on Cours Franklin Roosevelt in the 6eme district. Hands down the best pastry shop in all of Lyon.

Annual occasions not to miss are: the Fête des lumières on December 8th, Marche de le Mode Vintage in June and the Journées du Patrimoine, this year on September 19 and 20, where ancient buildings and national heritage sites normally closed are open to the public.

Gros bisous de Lyon et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

A Haunted Castle!!

2011-07-25T13:04:00.001+02:00

In rather a Blair Witch Project kind of way, a colleague of mine and I visited a chateau with, what we felt, had a potential for truly being haunted.

I cannot name the chateau in question as I would have to kill you all as it is filed in the Top Secret Category of places to go into my Haunted Guide of France!! Ha ha!

We arrived in the early evening for a seance being held by a well-known medium within the castle walls. As this was the first seance I have ever been to, I cannot compare, but I found the ambiance to be excellent! It was held in the downstairs drawing room of the chateau. Afterwards, said colleague and I had a private tour of the entire place--at night!

Zee chateau in the dwindling light of the early evening.

Lit up at night, all dramatic!

Gorgeous staircase in the day ...

That looks like this at night. I had a paranormal experience on these stairs, the details of which shall be written into my haunted guide.

Nice eerie hallway.

Me in a mirror.

The window in which a ghost is often seen looking out of. More details on paranormal activity to come in the haunted guide.

A bedroom.

The place was crawling with creepy spiders!

Loved these doorways!

Then we went outside and toured the grounds in the dark--like I said, à la Blair Witch Project.

Outer buildings

I have no idea what the heck this is!!

Us, running to escape it!! (just kidding, but pretty dramatic, nest ce pas!)

Then we went down into the cellars under the chateau.

Where the owner has been digging and discovered more rooms!

And we met a bunch of these fellas!

Several rooms were filled with tempting mattresses such as these. Me and my big burly guy friend colleague were given permission to stay the night here. Pah-retty spooky!!

Bon, gros bisous des châteaux qui font peur et a bientôt!!

Love, Charley

Molière

2011-07-20T11:33:00.002+02:00

Well, hello again! Good to be back, I missed you all!

It was wonderful to take ten days off, absolutely glorious. My son was off in Ardèche climbing cliffs, swinging in the tree tops and canoeing while my daughter backpacked around Europe with her friends to celebrate their graduation. So I had ten magnificent days alone. I tried to think back as to when the last time I had ten days alone ... maybe 1987? Anyhow, it was greatly appreciated and I had many an adventure. While I go through photos and digest activities from the last ten days, we shall start off where we left off--with Molière.

Jean-Baptiste Poquelin aka Molière

(1622 - 1673)

Known to be one of the greatest masters of comedy in Western literature, Molière was a playwright as well as an actor. He wrote dozens of plays, some of the most famous of which are:

Le Misanthrope (The Misanthrope),

L'École des femmes (The School for Wives),

Tartuffe ou L'Imposteur, (Tartuffe or the Hypocrite),

L'Avare (The Miser),

and Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme (The Bourgeois Gentleman)

Les Précieuses ridicules (The Affected Ladies),

L'École des maris (The School for Husbands), and

Le Malade imaginaire (The Hypochondriac).

Molière was born into a well to do family. His mother died when he was ten years old. His father purchased a post from the court of Louis XIII, that of "valet de chambre ordinaire et tapissier du Roi" ("valet of the King's chamber and keeper of carpets and upholstery"). After having completed his studies at the Jesuit Collège de Clermont, he followed his father's plans taking up the King's post which would serve to help him in the future as a great network of contacts.

When he was twenty-one, he decided to pursue a career on the stage, a big decision for a man of his class at the time. Actors were no longer seen as utter villains under King Louis XIV, but they were not allowed to be buried in hallowed ground. This is perhaps why he took the stage name, Molière, to spare his father any embarrassment.

Partnering up with fellow actress Madeleine Béjart, he founded L'Illustre Théâtre in 1643. This company went bankrupt and another was formed which lasted twelve years. During the travels of this second company, Armand, Prince of Conti, governor of Languedoc and member of the reigning house of Bourbon (more on that in the next blog, as I visited the Chateau de Chantilly, home of the Bourbons and Princes of Condé), became his patron.

That is until Armand, Prince of Conti contracted syphilis from a courtesan, attempted to cure himself through religion and turned against Molière. (The drama!)

Armand, Prince of Conti

In Lyon, Molière's troupe picked up a ballet dancer and actress; a certain Marquise-Thérèse de Gorla, stage name Mademoiselle Du Parc.

Known for her love affairs, she was the object of affection for several famous people including Corneille who wrote poems about her. A star of the troupe, "She made some notable antics, because we saw her legs and part of her thighs through its split skirt on both sides, with silk stockings attached to the top of panties". After Racine and Molière quarreled (as Molière refused to perform one of Racine's works), Racine began a love affair with Mademoiselle Du Parc and she consequently transferred over to his acting troupe.

In 1658, Molière performed Corneille's tragedy Nicomède in front of the King at the Louvre. The King as delighted and Molière was awarded the title Troupe de Monsieur and he joined a famous Italian Commedia dell'arte company.

In 1661, Nicolas Fouquet (see my blog) requested that Molière perform his play Les Fâcheux for the first time at a magnificent fête in King Louis XIV's honor at his new castle, Vaux-le-Vicomte. One of the biggest fêtes in the history of France (the head chef was non other than the famous François Vatel, take note of this name, more to come). Fouquet was arrested that night for embezzlement (he was the King's treasurer), imprisoned for life and his wife and son exiled.

Vaux-le-Vicomte

As Molière frequently wrote satires on social mannerisms and affections, he was often attacked and criticized for his works. The King always stood behind him, although sometimes admonishing him by obliging him to write something on a more softer tone. Several of Molière's plays were banned during this time, among them Tartuffe and Dom Juan ou le Festin de Pierre.

It is important to recognize the amazing feats that Molière performed: during his fourteen year reign in Paris on the stage, he wrote thirty-one of the eighty-five plays performed and single-handedly held the troupe together.

Suffering from pulmonary tuberculosis, Molière collapsed on stage in a fit of coughing while performing in his last play Le Malade imaginaire (The Hypochondriac). He insisted upon finishing the play, collapsing again with a large hemorrhage. He was taken home at the end of the play and died two hours later in his bed.

As I mentioned above, French actors were not allowed to be buried in hallowed ground. Molière's widow begged the King for a night funeral and the King agreed, allowing Molière to be buried in the back part of the cemetery reserved for unbaptised children.

In 1817, Molière's remains were brought to the Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris where you can visit today.

In 2007, director Laurent Tirard made the film entitled Molière starring one of my favorite actors, Roman Duris (see my blog), Fabrice Luchini and Ludivine Sagnier. Voici le trailer:

Voila! gros bisous de comédie exquise et a bientôt!!

Love, Charley

Off on a drive about!

2011-07-09T08:27:00.001+02:00

Lots of exciting things happening!! Heading off to visit a few haunted sites this weekend to wrap up my haunted guide to France. A major television production company in Los Angeles will be filming me in September for a guest spot on a television show whose name I cannot reveal at this time. (Oh!) I just published an article in French Entree Magazine. And the English version of the nonfiction historical manuscript, L'énigme des Arêtes de Poisson, is off to the agents, so cross your fingers and toes for me, please!

The last two months have been pretty intense and I apologize for not having blogged a bit more. So, I am taking a much needed week off, renting a car with a friend and going on a drive about. I may blog whilst I wander, I may not. At any rate, I am certain to be bursting with loads of exciting new things to share upon my return!!

I leave you with a quote from the great Jean-Baptiste Poquelin aka Molière, "The trees that are slow to grow bear the best fruit".

Voila! Gros bisous des grands aventures et a très bientôt!

Love, Charley

Guest Blogger Eleanor gives us top 20 things to love about France!

2011-07-06T15:06:00.007+02:00

Eleanor is sharing the love!

Eleanor Fullalove is the editor of French Magazine and

FrenchEntrée.com the complete guide to French property & living in France.

published by Horizon New Media (which also owns Francophile forum TotalFrance.com)

French Magazine is the UK's biggest and most beautiful title on all things French and Frenchentree.com the online guide to property, holidays and life in France.

Eleanor has worked in Paris and in Nice but nowadays is based in Bath, where she spends her days writing about France and interacting with her readership via Twitter and Facebook.

She recently spent three weeks in the Dordogne ‘for research’ and will set off on her next trip to France in a matter of days.

The blog post below was originally a feature in the January/February 2011 issue of French Magazine with input from users of TotalFrance.com

What do you love most about France? The food, wine, weather or house prices? We asked the question to TotalFrance (www.totalfrance.com) forum users, many of whom already enjoy life in France. Here are our top 20 favourite responses

1. Shops being closed on Sundays and the Gallic shrug

2. The ability of most French women to purse their lips in disapproval, raise their eyebrows and still manage to look sexy and chic at the same time

3. The sheer beauty and wildness of the countryside and wildlife

4. Catherine Deneuve. Who needs the other 19?

5. The paradox of mild cheese that can be nasally detected from 8kms away

6. French kisses, random weather forecasting, May and drivers so friendly they like to snuggle your bumper

7. Lack of ‘pay and display’ and cheap booze

8. Towns with more lingerie shops than estate agents

9. The tomatoes taste of tomatoes in the summer

10. I could just get on my bicycle and keep going and go through many different countries

11. Real mountains and real gorges

12. Being trusted to pay for my coffee after I have enjoyed it outside in the sunshine

13. My beautiful Périgordian house which I could not dream of owning in UK

14. Fast, efficient and thorough medical treatment.

15. Lots of friends who give me fruit and veg, nuts and berries and sometimes cheese!

16. Eating foods in season; gathering walnuts, chestnuts and mushrooms – all the free stuff

17. The way everyone at a wedding drives around the neighbourhood parping their horns

18. The mad way of counting, so instead of saying 97 you have to say 4 times 20 and 10 and 7

19. For allowing that glass pyramid to be put next to the Louvre

20. Vide greniers, cheaper vet’s bills, confit de canard and the TGV system

And in the interests of balance, some of the things people don’t love about France:

Andouillettes, hole-in-the ground toilets, Johnny Hallyday(!)

Wait, I like Andouillettes!! (says Charley)

Many thanks, Eleanor!!

Gros bisous of sharing the love et a bientôt!!

Love, Charley

http://www.frenchentree.com/http://www.frenchentree.com/

Un château hanté

2011-07-01T11:36:00.003+02:00

Yesterday's haunted château escapade turned out to be bigger and better than I could have hoped for or imagined!! And that's saying a lot!

As this will be in my upcoming Haunted Guide to France, I can't tell you where it is or what name it goes by (otherwise, I'll have to kill you, mwah-ha!), but I can share some photos and some of the experience.

Think château built during the Belle Époque period in France. Built by a wealthy man for his wife and family, this château was socially in the spirit of the Belle Époque era with its opulent architecture, its luxurious trapping and its famed social gathers and dinner parties.

The château eventually passed from one hand to another up to today's current owner who lives in another country and refuses to sell and also refuses to preserve the château which was deemed an official Monument Historique in 1986. Sadly, the building has been utterly stripped of all its finery: original wood floors, chimneys, mirror, wood framing, etc. It has been squatted in, there are traces of sorcery and devil worship and it looks to be party central.

Voici quelque photos.

Living room stripped of everything, note the lack of wood flooring.

Same for the salon.

The only intact piece of finery.

Madame's once opulent bedroom, complete with a small boudoir.

Madame's bath ...

... where we found traces of some sort of sorcery: burning of feathers and meat.

A rapper ode to love and Aids

Stripped bedroom

Staircase to attic

Grand staircase

Then my colleague (Ghost hunting is more fun à deux, so I have a big burly guy friend colleague who shall remain un mystère for the time being.) drags me down these dark, creepy stairs into the basement!!

At the bottom of which we find this amazing kitchen à la The Shining.

Then we go even further into the bowels of the mountain upon which the castle sits. Now, imagine the château was built upon massive (and I mean massive) vaulted arches as support. Cave-like rooms were dug back into the mountain from these arches to form rudimentary rooms.

Here is one of the arches.

One of the cave-like rooms in which--now get this--the owner in the 80's turned into a night club/pizzeria! What??? Hold the phone!

How can I explain to you the surrealistic sentiment one gets when visiting a glorious Belle Époque masterpiece that has been raped and pillaged beyond reason, then one takes winding stairs, down, down, down and one finds this gaudy freakish 80's nightclub?

Some clever soul dubbed it "The Whore's Bar 24/24".

I'll have to admit, I was digging the glass walls (well, broken glass walls) looking out over the valley.

Where people have drunkenly launched bits and pieces of Belle Époque and 80's furniture and trimmings.

The pizzeria in arch number two.

The lounge. Love the one tiny remnant of tiger rug upon which sits the one remaining table upon which to pose your beverage. There was a psalm book open on the floor.

We spent several hours in the place simply digesting it all and feeling it. Then we went outside to the pool. I loved this arched gate that most likely led to the gardens, only I had absolutely NO desire to pass through it! It felt creepy and bad as did the pool. I felt as if it led to another dimension. (There were definitely creepy pockets of energy in the place, but overall it felt good)

Now ... just as we walked back towards the château, to head out, I clearly saw a ghost / spirit / presence. It was a flash, as though I had seen through a veil into another dimension. The ghost wasn't looking at us, he was simply walking as if heading downtown to do some errands. I sketched what I saw.

I think that because we spent so much time there and opened ourselves up to the place, I was able to see this spirit. I felt no harm. It was crystal clear and was just amazing to me.

Bon, back to my life as it is in Lyon!! Do stay tuned for next weekend as we are visiting a place that is documented to be haunted.

Gros bisous des châteaux magnifique ainsi que surréaliste et a bientôt!

Love Charley

French haunted spots, anyone?

2011-06-29T21:21:00.001+02:00

Tomorrow I am off to check out a possibly haunted and abounded chateau. Pretty exciting. Next weekend I am staying overnight in a chateau that is documented to be haunted and am hoping to get some images or recordings. Really exciting!

I am wrapping up a haunted guide to France and am looking for a few more places to complete that book.

If any of you know of some haunted places in France that you would like to share, I would love to hear from you!!

Stay tuned for some fresh adventures!!

Gros bisous hantés et a bientôt ... j'espère!

Love, Charley

10 bonnes adresses for fresh frog legs in the Lyon area!!

2011-06-26T12:42:00.001+02:00

Well, it's summertime. Summertime means it's time to eat frog legs, so put on your greasy butter bibs and belly on up to the frog bar, boys and girls!!

The most important part of eating frog legs is being "in the know". You can't just eat them any old place. Many restaurants serve frozen frog legs and that, my dear readers, is a major faux pas! They must be served fresh and cooked just right which is not as easy as it may seem.

Bien sur, we all know that, traditionally, the frogs originate from the étangs (ponds) of the La Dombes in the "Pays de l'Ain", ancient principality of the Beaujeu family which only became part of the kingdom of France in 1762. Situated between Bresse, Lyon and the Beaujolais areas, it is a mere 30 minutes from Lyon.

You cannot eat good frog legs in town!! Non, non, non!! Parisians come to La Dombes with their Guides Michelin tucked under their arms, to eat the best frog legs at les bonnes adresses.

There is nothing like leaving the city behind and bombing around the French countryside on impossibly small and winding country roads. And just when you think you've lost your way and there couldn't possibly be any form of civilized anything near by, you turn a corner and there you see, nestled in a small nondescript village, a restaurant with about 500 cars parked out front. (Okay, slight exaggeration on the 500, there!)

Warmly greeted, you are then seated either on an outdoor terrace or in a lovely garden. An aperitif is promptly served and the meal commences, lasting for hours. Wine is poured and course after course is served as the sun sets and the garden lights come to life bringing with them playful shadows in the surrounding foliage and the sounds of insects playing their summer medleys.

Amuse bouche

Foie gras

Fresh frog legs cooked to perfection

Poulet de Bresse à la Crème

A vegetable dish

Cheese

Desert

And roll your old bones out on a stretcher!

Without further ado, I give you the top 10 bonnes adresses for frog legs in the Lyon area (Highly coveted by my ex-mother-in-law, mind you, and most certainly up to date!)

My personal favorite at the moment, the best meal for your money:

Chez Bibet in Saint Bernard, right on the Saône River with a massive terrace, great ambiance, a perfect place for visiting family and friends. I love that there are people playing Pétanque next to the parking lot round midnight when you stagger out of the joint.

The French institution, the classic, the insanely delicious, L'Ancienne Auberge de Georges Blanc in Vonnas. Guaranteed to be a meal never forgotten. Perhaps you can't afford Georges Blanc's gastronomic restaurant in Vonnas (which locals refer to as Village Blanc), but you can afford his mother's restaurant L'Ancienne Auberge. Still pricey, but top of the tops.

Restaurant Roland in Condeissiate. I love this place! The prices are right and the food is pretty good, (not excellent, mind) the frog legs are guaranteed delicious and fresh. The restaurant has been around for quite a while, the owners are a little spacey but kind and there is a quaint ambiance. I spent New Years Eve there two years ago with my bestie from the States, couldn't have had more fun.

Golf de la Bresse in Domaine de Mary, Condeissiat. (Golf, anyone?) Kidding aside, a lovely if not somewhat chic ambiance where the outdoor terrace overlooks the greens. Expensive, but well worth an excellent meal in an excellent ambiance.

La Tour in Chatillon sur Chalaronne. (Click here for a menu) Très chic, Lance Armstrong stayed here during the Tour de France! Chatillon is a gorgeous village which I know every square centimeter of by heart as it is "where I am from" in France, home to my ex-belle famille. A great place to spend the weekend, the architecture is stunning and perfectly preserved (thanks in large part to my ex-beaux papa), the covered market is renowned and insanely ancient, the church dates from the 11th century, there is a fantastic old castle, cute little restaurants and a lovely retreat for spa and relaxation (click on the Détentes button in the navigation for more info).

Le Saint Lazare in L'Abergement Clémenciat (just down the road from Chatillon sur Chalaronne). Very nice, very calm, lovely view of the French countryside. You can eat in the épicerie de la grand-mère section (moins cher and you must order the frog legs ahead) or in the gastronomic section (plus cher no ordering in advance necessary).

Restaurant Emile Job in Montmerle sur Saone. Très chic! They have a hotel as well in the event you can't roll your old bones on home!

Restaurant Serrurier also in Montmerle sur Saone, more of a "friture" restaurant which means more populaire (ordinary) and less expensive than a gastronomic restaurant like Emile Job.

Hôtel Restaurant de la Gare in St-Paul-de-Varax. Excellent frog legs, lovely setting (click on Présentation de l'établissement in the navigation) and nice cozy rooms to stay overnight if needed.

Le Buldo 2, quai Raoul Carrie, Lyon. Okay, okay, I know I said no eating frog legs in the city! but this isn't technically the city, it is just on the outskirts of Lyon directly across from the gorgeous L'Île Barbe (from the Latin insula barbara, meaning l'île savage or wild island). L'Île Barbe is home to one Gaul's oldest Abbey founded in the 5th century. Charlemagne commissioned a beautiful library on the island. It is a must visit place, and what better than to stroll around the island in the early evening and then dine on frog legs whilst admiring said island!

My aunt and uncle with me at Chez Bibet a couple of weeks back

Before

After

Don't forget to swipe up the last of the garlicky parsley butter with your crusty baguette!

Friture. Gross, Charley doesn't eat whole fried fishes!

How us un-French people leave the bones on the plate (scandalous, there is still so much flesh on the teeny, tiny bones!).

How the French leave the bones on the plate!

Bon dégustation des grenouilles et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

Battle of the Bands

2011-06-22T19:41:00.000+02:00

Mon fils won second and third place in the Battle of the Bands last night during the Festival of Music. Being the drummer extraordinaire that he is, he was in three different bands.

Shibby

T?e Decisions

The Traveling Tourists

Here is the second place win, "It's My Life" reworked à la Glee.

Accepting the award.

I am so proud. I am so thrilled with the school for organizing a Battle of the Bands; a fun time was had by all!!

Gros bisous de la festival de musique et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

Le Solstice et La Fête de la Saint-Jean

2011-06-21T09:39:00.003+02:00

Sol + stice derives from a combination of Latin words meaning "sun" + "to stand still" during the longest day of the year.

The Celts, whose archaeological culture dates back to 800 BCE (Before Common Era), had already migrated to France by 450 BCE bringing with them their culture, language and rituals. The Celtic language still survives in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, Wales Cornwall and Brittany, France.

The Celtic culture and language spread throughout France and, by the time the Romans invaded, the Celts, then living in what today we know as France were called Gauls. You've read a little Asterix and Obelix, n'est-ce pas?

Druids were the Celt's priests, religious officiants, judges, teachers, lore-keepers and sacrificers who performed ceremonial sacrifices of crops and animals for the benefit of the community. The Romans reported that the Druids held their ceremonies in sacred groves, at sacred pools and near votive pools.

One of the Celtic rituals in France was the celebration of the Summer Solstice; it is thought to be a time of magic (just ask Shakespeare), a time when evil spirits are said to appear. The Celts gathered magical plants and healing herbs (Saint John's Wort, Vervain, Yarrow, Fern and Mugwort) one of the most effective being Saint John's Wort. Bright bonfires were lit and dancers adorned in garlands of herbs and flowers would leap through the flames.

Today's Druids celebrating at Stonehenge.

As is the case with many Christian rituals and celebrations, the Pagan Summer Solstice was taken and transformed into La Fête de la Saint-Jean. This Catholic festivity in celebration of Saint John the Baptist takes place on the 24th of June as opposed to the 21st. Bonfires are traditionally lit and people dance around them and leap over them.

Here is a macabre piece of information: in France, from the 17th century right on through the Renaissance, people partook in Cat-Burning during Le Solstice et Fête de la Saint-Jean.

I quote:

"In this form of entertainment, people would gather dozens of cats in a net and hoist them high into the air from a special bundle onto a bonfire. According to Norman Davies^[1], the assembled people "shrieked with laughter as the animals, howling with pain, were singed, roasted, and finally carbonized."^[2]

"It was the custom to burn a basket, barrel, or sack full of live cats, which was hung from a tall mast in the midst of the bonfire; sometimes a fox was burned. The people collected the embers and ashes of the fire and took them home, believing that they brought good luck. The French kings often witnessed these spectacles and even lit the bonfire with their own hands. In 1648 Louis XIV, crowned with a wreath of roses and carrying a bunch of roses in his hand, kindled the fire, danced at it and partook of the banquet afterwards in the town hall. But this was the last occasion when a monarch presided at the midsummer bonfire in Paris. At Metz midsummer fires were lighted with great pomp on the esplanade, and a dozen cats, enclosed in wicker cages, were burned alive in them, to the amusement of the people. Similarly at Gap, in the department of theHautes-Alpes, cats used to be roasted over the midsummer bonfire."

Say what??!!

Happily, the modern-day French have elected to celebrate Le Solstice with big music festivals throughout the country. From the 21st to the 24th, music is heard all night long, covering both Le Solstice et Fête de la Saint-Jean.

I tend to appreciat the magical feeling of the Summer Solstice, the idea of new beginnings and welcoming fertility in thoughts, concepts and everyday life, the pleasure in welcoming in the longest day of the year.

Another quote (gentler!):

“Legends describe the solstice as a time when the doors to enchanted castles and the underworld were cast open and mortals could mingle with fairies and imprisoned princesses and explore hidden caverns. Shakespeare set his silly and brilliant comedy on this night, depicting the collision of three very different worlds in a magic forest where fairies work romantic mischief on sleeping couples, while bad actors rehearse a Roman play about doomed lovers. The youth of today may not pause to think that they are reenacting ancient midsummer celebrations or mating rituals when they get debaucherous at the many music festivals that kick off around the solstice, but the primal desire to be outside dancing and carousing late into the night is irrepressible at this time of year.” - Megan Cytron, Salon.com

This year, I shall be attending a Fête de la Saint-Jean as I did two years ago. There will be a big outdoor feast and a big bonfire. Last time I attended the event, there was a clear and starry sky. When the flames went down, people began to leap across them. It was surrealistic and magical--amazing to watch. What I wonder is, this year, will I have the courage to leap over the flames?

Bon Fête du Solstice et de la Saint-Jean!!

Gros bisous et a bientôt.

Love, Charley

Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis or Welcome to the Sticks

2011-06-15T08:14:00.001+02:00

In reading my friend Sara's blog Le Petit Village this morning, I was reminded of a little bar / restaurant of our own here in Lyon called Le Ch'ti Pot Ney.

"What the heck is a Ch'ti?" some of you might ask. I would have to refer you to the hilarious French film entitled Bienvenue Chez Les Ch'tis or Welcome to the Sticks.

Although living a comfortable life in Salon-de-Provence, a charming town in the South of France, Julie has been feeling depressed for a while. To please her, Philippe Abrams, a post office administrator, her husband, tries to obtain a transfer to a seaside town, on the French Riviera, at any cost. The trouble is that he is caught red-handed while trying to scam an inspector. Philippe is immediately banished to the distant unheard of town of Bergues, in the Far North of France. Leaving his child and wife behind, the crucified man leaves for his frightening destination, a dreadfully cold place inhabited by hard-drinking, unemployed rednecks, speaking an incomprehensible dialect called Ch'ti. Philippe soon realizes that all these ideas were nothing but prejudices and that Bergues is not synonymous with hell... Written by Guy Bellinger

For the last two years, Stéphane, a real Ch'ti from the North, has run our local restaurant, Le Ch'ti Pot Ney. The place has the authentic feel of a real northern French pub. You can get some great draft beer and watch a match of "foot" (that's soccer to us Americans) or rugby on the big screen. The food is really good, not a large menu, but authentic northern Ch'ti food well-prepared. Every Friday there are mussels and homemade fries.

Be warned, there are oftentimes crazy parities!!

And, ahem, Stéphane is known to drink along with the clients allowing them to run the till and serve their own food! He can also become quite offended when asked for the bill, bellowing out, "Who do you take me for!!" And you just have to smile nicely and take your leave sans paying the bill!

Bien sur, Dany Boon, the star of Bienvenue Chez Les Ch'tis has been to Le Ch'ti Pot Ney, the place is practically a shrine to him!

Voila, vivre les petits bars originaux et magique!

Gros bisous et a bientôt.

Love, Charley

Marché de la Mode Vintage

2011-06-11T14:58:00.001+02:00

Today I dragged myself away from breaking up with my man, looking for a new job, keeping my house clean enough to show for sale, showing said house to potential buyers, pre-packing for a move, looking for a new apartment and went on down to Lyon's annual Marché de la Mode Vintage. Whew!

Their website features a list of vintage shops in Lyon. Look for the Marché right next to the fair, just below the Aquarium (Bus 8).

Ma fille made sure we there bright and early to receive our free shopping bags.

The place was packed. Today was the first day, it's on all weekend.

Some fun bangles.

Everyone needs a pair of these furry boots!

Fur stoles, anyone?

A high end stand: they had vintage Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent and Hermes at 1,000 to 1,500 a pop. Is that in cash?

Way cool rings made with pieces of vintage material.

Treasure troves of bijoux!

Ditto on the trove, but for pipes and old lighters.

Miles and miles of shoes.

An ancient, orange computer.

Ohh, a Supertramp album!!

Lotta sixties stuff ....

These guys were fun!

Ma fille browsing the 5 euro rack.

My future is so bright, I gotta wear shades!! :-)

A colorful plethora of skinny, leather, 80's ties.

Ohh, loved these furry little mules!

Now, this mink coat was gorgeous and pas cher.

Loved the graffiti on the back wall, the whole ambiance was warehouse chic.

Bags for days!

Fun chairs!

Many of the sellers and customers went all decked out, dressed in their best vintage look. So theatrical!

I've never seen so many real fur coats! What up?

Nice little vintage Dior trunks.

Ma fille's purchase, a cute little leather back pack purse.

Well that was certainly an excellent distraction!

Bon, gros bisous de shopping vintage et a bientôt!!

Love, Charley

Circa 1980

2011-06-02T12:16:00.003+02:00

Circa 1980, I had the pleasure of coming to France via an exchange program through my high school.

I took my H.A.S.H. jean wearing,

Candie's shoe sporting,

Robert Plant hair-styled self

to Europe with the music of Led Zeppelin, Foreigner and Cheap Trick echoing in my mind.

First, a handful of us arrived in London where we stayed for a week-long cultural visit where we saw many new and exciting goings-on, très different from what we were accustomed to!

Punks, for example, where everywhere, especially on Kings Road.

I was kind of digging the concept of skinny pants and got myself a pair of these (well, for women, bien sur),

as well as a cute leather jacket.

The music was abrasive, à la Johnny Rotten, Sid Vicious and the gang, I wasn't too interested.

In France I discovered pixie boots, leggings and skinny jeans. My hair was right on target with the new 80's fashion, no worries there.

The French teenagers were way more laid back than their American contemporaries. The drinking age was 16, it was not cool to drink to get drunk, rather you sat around nursing a drink, smoking Gauloise cigarettes,

wearing distressed Levis, strategically ripped and graffiti'd with your favorite band,

sporting Clarks shoes,

and discussing politics, religion and world affaires.

Bien sur, we also frequented nightclubs with our new-found French friends where we drank Gin Fizz's (pronounced geeen feeez) and danced to "Tainted Love" by Soft Cell.

My family, with whom I lived for 6 months, was incredibly warm, friendly and adorable. They spoke not one word of English! Needless to say, the first month we were breaking out in constant peels of laughter as I flipped through my trusty dictionary searching for ways to communicate, flapping my hands, pronouncing everyone wrong.

My French mother was quite the cook. After bragging for several weeks about her culinary skills, my best friend (who was staying down the road with her own French family), invited herself over for dinner. The concept of not one, but two Americans in the house put the French family into a tizzy and my French mother was determined to make the finest meal, a meal never to be forgotten.

And I will never forget: The French father, his three children, me and my American friend seated around the dining room table, the titillating air of anticipation crackling in the air, listening to the French mother banging pots around in the kitchen behind closed doors (the entire culinary operation had been top secret all afternoon).

Finally, she called her eldest daughter in to help carry out the platters. I jabbed my best friend in the ribs, raised my eyebrow in a knowing way and said, "Oh là là you are going to see what I've been talking about!" She rubbed her hands with glee.

And then the door to the kitchen opened and out came my French mother with this beef tongue stretched out on a white platter.

Quelle surprise!!

Bon! Gros bisous des années 80 et a bientôt!

Love, Charley

La fête des mères or Mother's Day!

2011-05-30T07:46:00.000+02:00

Yesterday was la fête des mères in France. I was offered a delicious and enormous cafe au lait, which I rarely drink and therefore imbibed with great relish.

With that I was served my favorite pastry, choux à la crème, (see my blog) a thin and delicate pastry absolutely stuffed full of freshly whipped cream.

Zoe and I brought our fantastic breakfasts into the living room and proceeded to watch A Place in the Sun with Montgomery Clift, Elizabeth Taylor and Shelley Winters, an absolutely fabulous film to watch with one's daughter on Mother's Day with a belly full of whipped cream and coffee.

But my favorite part of la fête des mères was my present.

Ten years ago, I took this photo of my kids imitating the two little lap dogs at my Aunt and Uncle's house: mon fils was four and ma fille was seven with a mouth full of no teeth!

This was my gift, ten years later:

How cute is that!!??

Alors, bonne fête des mères et a bientôt!

p.s. I am in the process of selling my apartment. (Anyone interested in a 5 bedroom, 2 bath, 2 living room apartment with a laundry room, American kitchen and a beautiful private terrace in the heart of the city let me know!) Don't worry, I'm not leaving Lyon, merely downsizing to a smaller place! I'm a little busy with pre-packing and preparing the place to show, so bear with me if my blogs are less often than usual. I'll be back on track in a week or so.

Love, Charley

Betteraves or beets!

2011-05-23T08:36:00.004+02:00

One of the things I love most about France is how the French eat in harmony with the seasons. Beets have begun to make their appearance at the local markets. Betteraves or beets, an excellent source of potassium, folic acid and magnesium, a delicious and incredibly healthy vegetable.

And they come in several colors!

Here in France, you can get them pretty much all year round, precooked and hermetically sealed in plastic. With these, I love to make a simple Beet Tapenade to spread on crackers, thinly sliced baguette or simply dip with a chip.

Take your precooked beet, cut it up in rough chunks and toss in your mixer.

Add a little olive oil

salt

pepper

and mix!

Beet Tapenade, so simple and it adds a real zest of color to an aperitif.

Yesterday, I rummaged through Epicurious.com's beet recipes and the following caught my eye, I made it yesterday and it was exquisite!

6 medium beets with beet greens attached

2 large oranges
1 small sweet onion, cut through root end into thin wedges
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon grated orange peel

Preheat oven to 400°F. Trim greens from beets. Cut off and discard stems. Coarsely chop leaves and reserve. Wrap each beet in foil. Place beets directly on oven rack and roast until tender when pierced with fork, about 1 hour 30 minutes. Cool. Peel beets, then cut each into 8 wedges. Place beets in medium bowl.

Cook beet greens in large saucepan of boiling water just until tender, about 2 minutes. Drain. Cool. Squeeze greens to remove excess moisture. Add greens to bowl with beets. Cut peel and white pith from oranges. Working over another bowl and using small sharp knife, cut between membranes to release segments. Add orange segments and onion to bowl with beet mixture. Whisk vinegar, oil, garlic, and orange peel in small bowl to blend; add to beet mixture and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour. Serve.

I popped the beets in the oven to roast while I did a little (ahem, a lot of!) housecleaning.

Aidan, over at Conjugating Irregular Verbs cooked up some beets yesterday on her Seasonal Sunday blog. Her recipe looks great, but then again, everything she cooks looks great!

I found a huge amount of truly varied recipes for beets on a French website. Remember, you only have to copy and paste the recipe into Google Translate to have the translation plus conversion.

Betteraves are used more often than you would think in cooking. Here are a few photos to make your mouth water:

Shredded cooked beets served with tender baby greens and goat cheese melted on toast.

A typical French apero.

Yummy yellow beets sliced thin and drizzled with olive oil, fresh basil, salt and pepper.

Beet and beet greens bruschetta!

Beet soup with a dollop of fresh cream.

Beet greens are tastier than you would imagine. I loved them as a kid and love them even more as an adult. (Yeah, I know, weird kid!)

Salad!

A classy beet dish: beets with fennel pesto.

Almost looks like a desert, doesn't it! Another French apero of betteraves and crème fraîche.

Gros bisous, bon dégustation des betteraves et a très bientôt!

Love, Charley

Guest Blogger Kirsty on what she loves about France

2011-05-19T08:35:00.001+02:00

Kirsty is sharing the love!

A very special event happened back in March, Aidan organized a Blogapalooza where a number of us anglophone bloggers met up for lunch in Aix-en-Provence. One of those bloggers was Kirsty at You Had Me At Bonjour. Her profile says,"An Australian mother of three and lucky wife to the mister, this is my record of our life in southern France." Kirsty is quite the quilter and photographer. She has a wicked sense of humor and a wonderfully original regard on France and all things French. I always have a good laugh when I read her blog.

So, here is what Kirsty has to say about France. Enjoy!

Thank you Charley for inviting me to write a guest post on what I love about France. All I can say is where do I start?

- The postman delivers six days a week here in France. Coming from a mail-only-on-weekdays country, I find this awesome. He still only rings once though.

- Duckfat. It's so bad, but so good.

- The Luberon Valley

Fruit trees in blossom in the Luberon, Provence

- France's love of food and the ritual of the meal. The rest of the Western world could learn a lot from the French here - food isn't just fuel, it is one of life's most satisfying pleasures and should be given the attention and time it deserves. This love of food is encouraged from a young age, both in the family home and at school. Here is one of the daily menus from my kids' school, where they enjoy a four-course lunch every day:

For those not well versed in français:

~ Starter: Diced vegetables with a Provençal dressing ~

~Main: Provençal braised beef casserole served with penne pasta and organic, butter-glazed carrots ~

~ Cheese course: Pont l'Eveque cheese (similar to brie or camembert) served on baguette ~

~Dessert: French pound cake ~

May I stress that the maternelle school system starts at age three. Yes, three year olds are eating this meal. It's enough to make me cry into my Vegemite sandwich.

- the French kiss. No, not the slobbery one, but rather the European tradition of kissing on both cheeks when greeting/parting, which my very young children refer innocently to as a French kiss. This isn't a cliché - everyone does it, everywhere. The police officer who mans the pedestrian crossing at school greets the parents he knows in this way (while standing in the middle of the road). Male teenagers with butt-cracks hanging out of their undies (which are respectively hanging out of their jeans) will hold their cigarettes aside to kiss their male friends. It's different to anything I've ever seen and I love it - any custom that encourages the breakdown of stereotypical macho culture is A-OK with me.

Thanks Kirsty!! For anyone interested in being a guest blogger, the rules are simple: you have to have a blog and be able to write on something you love about France. Feel free to send me an email.

Oh, and, Aidan, when are we doing the next Blogapalooza?? :-)

Gros bisous of sharing the love et a bientôt!

Marc Chagall - 20th century painter extraordinaire!

2011-05-16T09:06:00.001+02:00

I realize that I have done an awful lot of blogging with a macabre twist lately. My apologies, I am finishing up a haunted guide to France and have a bit of a one track mind. Here is a little artistic cleansing of the pallet for you....

I can't believe it took me this long to blog about Marc Chagall. One of my favorite Belarusian-French Jewish painters!

Marc Chagall (née Moishe Shagal) 1887 - 1985

To be honest, I am not quite sure whether I adore his work for its original surrealistic twist or because, when I was doing my stint at the Sorbonne Univeristy in Paris at the tender age of 19, I met and fell madly in love with a stunning Parisian of Argentinean descent who simultaneously introduced me to the Cure and Marc Chagall (we went to the George Pompidou Center for a massive exhibition--wow!). Hot, intellectual, cultured boyfriend vs cool artist??? Like a Pavlovian dog, I now have a conditioned reflex whenever I see a piece of work by Chagall ... great memories rise immediately into my conscious brain!

Oh, and, on an aside: the Pavlovian conditioning process was a major theme in Aldous Huxley's novel Brave New World. One of my favorite author's, one of my favorite books. If you haven't read it, I highly recommend it.

Oh, and, on another aside: As I am busy querying a super cool, historical, French, nonfiction manuscript I just finished translating--entitled ADP: Secret of the Knights Templar (see my website)--I ran into a very intriguing and fabulous quote by Aldous Huxley's literary agent, the late Dorris Halsey:

"Let's be realistic and do the impossible!"

I love, love, love that. A motto to live by!

Bon, back to Monsieur Chagall. As I have blabbed on and on, you can click here to read all about his life and you can scroll down to see some of his fantastic, magical, inspiring thought-provoking work.

Les Maries de la Tour Eiffel

For some reason, I just adore this one

Daydreaming

La Branche

He did many stained glass windows: for the Reims and Metz cathedrals, United Nations and Jerusalem windows in Israel.

Joli, n'est ce pas?

Gros bisous de l'art extraordinaire et a très bientôt!

Love, Charley